The chassis
wiring harness is a new genuine one. A friend turned up to see how I
was getting on. He happens to be a electrician and has fibreglass rods,
so he pulled a string through while he was there. Thanks Graham!
The harness was then easily pulled through.
The twisted wire wheel is excellent for removing rust. It can only be used where access is easy. It cannot get into awkward areas though.
A good result can be quickly achieved with the wire wheel.
I'm using smooth Hammerite for the brackets. Just brushed on gives an acceptable finish.
This is the brake bias valve fitted to the RH side of the chassis. I have coated it with Metal Ready to prepare the surface for paint.
This is the Metal Ready from Frost Restorers Equipment (www.frost.co.uk). Not sure how good it is going to be, but it's meant to seal the surface having reacted with any rust and leaving a coating of zinc phosphate. Thought I'd give it a go though.
The valve painted silver after the coating had been completed.
The A frame bars were removed from the chassis complete with their brackets. Here, we are removing the bolts in the bench vice. A lot easier than on the chassis. They still needed the use of a large hammer!
The A frame bars cleaned up with the wire wheel. I had the local garage press out the bushes. My 10 tonne press wasn't up to the job.
The arms painted.
These are the gearbox chassis brackets, cleaned and painted.
Here, a hole is being cut to fit the trailer socket to the rear cross member. There was a hole already on the forward face, so I made this one line up with it.
The fixing holes were drilled and tapped.
And the socket fitted and wiring connected.